Why should I have a decent suit in my closet?
Believe me, a quality piece speaks for itself, and don’t hope to pass off an inexpensive fake one as a really good suit. The way you look will not escape the attention of people involved in business negotiations and meetings. Showing up in a cheap suit, just as if it fit you, is the same as showing up in shoes covered with mud. Of course, they won’t say hello to you, but believe me, the impression you leave is not the best, and you also will feel “out of place”.
How to choose a good men’s suit?
You can tell a quality piece by the details. In good suits all the seams are well ironed at the stage of sewing, and then as if adjusted to the shape of the person. In expensive suits some places are stitched by hand. Then the seam is less dense (compared to machine stitching) and, accordingly, more docile with shrinkage.
Having wondered which men’s suit to choose, remember that at first glance details are important in the product. For example, the adhesive fabric can be seen only in inexpensive models, and in more respectable ones they use a canvas-like breathable fabric with horsehair embedding. Because of the canvas the suit is more dense and fits better.
For the lining there is a silk, synthetic fabric called kupro (not synthetic). It is strong, shiny (it looks beautiful) and quite slippery (which is convenient when putting the jacket on the shirt), hygroscopic and breathes well. There are types of kupro that are more expensive than even natural silk and are ideal as a lining. Firms, specializing in tailoring suits, for the fabrics even assign special numbers, by which it is clear what thickness and what quality of thread is used in manufacturing.
What are these numbers?
In the suit industry, there is a so called Super 100´s index. What does it say? This means that the fabric is made from the finest natural wool and has a max. fiber thickness of 18.5 microns. The Super 100´s index will never stand on a half wool fabric, it is only for wool, and it is definitely traceable, so violations will not be tolerated.
A high index number indicates that you are dealing with a more expensive fabric. For example, there’s the Super 150´s number. And when you have to choose a classic premium men’s suit for serious business meetings or important events, it will most likely be made of fabric with that marking. It means that thinner threads were used in the production, due to which the fabric is even lighter. If you want to choose a suit for men that does not crumple, then you should look for fabrics with the index Super 150s. This is a very high-quality and not cheap material, and suits made of this material hold their shape perfectly, and there will never be any wrinkles and folds. The best producers of both good fabrics and suits are considered to be European countries, Italy in particular.
Okay, Europe is the leader in this area. What about products from China?
High-quality suits are sewn both in China and Russia, but only in a handful of factories, whereas European manufacturers produce exclusively high-class items. There are many private ateliers, manufactories of the manufactory type with a century of history and experience. Take alone the Italian sartorials (tailoring shops), which have become almost a national pride. So if you do not know what brand to choose men’s suit – choose a European manufacturer or be sure to look at where the fabric is made, the product can be assembled in Russia, but the fabric and accessories only from Italy, such suits are high quality and reasonable price.
Is it really necessary to give half a fortune for a quality suit?
The price is not necessarily always enormous and directly proportional to the quality. It is clear that heads of state or Hollywood stars in the movies do flaunt in suits not for one thousand dollars, but that does not mean that everyone should do so.
8 typical mistakes when choosing a suit for men
- Wrong size
A suit should be comfortable. It is bad, if it fits in any places or sits too freely (it looks sloppy). Here are the signs to understand if the suit fits properly:
The sleeve looks straight, without folds and dents.
The collar of the jacket lies neatly on the neck, it is not bulging.
The jacket is definitely too small if the “X” shaped folds appear when the buttons are buttoned.
Lapels lie flat and tight.
On the shoulders the jacket sits perfectly, nothing presses or protrudes.
There should not be any folds, creases or “bubbles” on the back.
Splits (slits at the bottom of the jacket back) should not spread in different directions.
There should be no creases or wrinkles in the front of the jacket when the buttons are fully buttoned.
- The jacket is a bit long
An inexpensive suit can be tailored in such a way that it fits perfectly in terms of shoulder size and waist size, but the jacket is too long. Because of this the figure looks very disproportionate, almost ridiculous. Surely such a look will not add to anyone’s solidity.
How to choose a men’s suit, which fits you well in length? Stand up straight, hands down. Where the thumbs are, should pass the edge of the hem.
For very tall men, longer jackets are acceptable, and for those who are shorter, the hem can be tamed.
- Too long or too short a sleeve
On the right length of the sleeve depends on how you will look in a suit in general. When the sleeve hides almost all of the wrist, it makes the image sloppy, and too short sleeves look ridiculous.
The sleeve should reach to the bone of the wrist, and then 1-1.5 cm of the shirt cuff looks out from under the sleeve. Another criterion is to check that from the tip of the thumb to the beginning of the sleeve of the jacket is about 12 cm.
In a factory-made suit the sleeve length may not be perfect, even if the jacket itself sat well. In this case, the atelier can carefully shorten the sleeve to the right size.
- The pants are longer than necessary
You have to agree that the pants are not pretty when they are folded together.
How it should be: the bottom edge of the pant leg lies on the front of the shoe in such a way that you get one small crease. The back part should be longer than the front by 1-1.5 cm, for this purpose the pants are tucked slightly askew.
It does not matter if in the process of walking or when a man sits down, the socks look out from under the pants. But if the socks are very short, or slipped and covered his bare feet – it’s not nice. So choose those that fit closely and reach the middle of the calves.
- A single-breasted jacket has all the buttons buttoned, including the bottom one
Etiquette says this is wrong. No matter how many buttons there are in a single-breasted jacket, the bottom one should always be undone. For example, in many Italian models, the buttonhole for the bottom button is stitched, as it is assumed that it will never be fastened.
The rule for double-breasted jackets is to button all the buttons. Corseted men can still afford to leave the bottom button unbuttoned.
Sitting at the table, for example, during lunch or dinner, it is possible to wear a fully unbuttoned jacket, but if you get up, button it again.
- Too flashy colors
The classic options include black, blue, gray and gray-blue suits. In this case the dark colors are more suitable for the cold season, and light colors are suitable for the warm season, at least, so say the stylists.
So what color should I choose for the men’s suit? Now blue is very popular, it is even called the “new black” since some time. This is ideal if you will have only one suit, as they say, for all occasions. The universal shade for all occasions is dark blue, and if you want something more fashionable and original – choose light cornflower.
A big plus of the blue suits is that they fit almost any shirt or accessory. If you need a business style, buy a striped or plaid shirt, but for an evening out it is better to wear a white one.
The colors that are ideal for any time of year are gray and navy blue. If you wear black, think about the accessories to it, try to look so that no one will take your suit for a uniform. And remember that a white suit is absolutely unsuitable for business style, no matter what the weather is like.
- A business suit made of shiny fabric
Velvet jackets or silk lapels went out of fashion long ago, and certainly they are unacceptable in a classic suit. According to the dress-code the use of shiny material for sewing business suits is not allowed, and also it looks absolutely tasteless.
Yes, the modern fashion-industry can’t do without shine, but when it is obviously too much, it’s not fashionable, but at least it looks strange. In a suit of shimmering fabric can shine in a nightclub, but for the office it is a taboo.
So what fabric should I choose to wear to look stylish and dignified? The best look is something matte. Tweed or natural wool are much better than a false unpresentable shine.
- Pants don’t fit well
Well-cut pants are not too snug, but they don’t hang down either. An average height of fit is considered universal, with the waistband positioned at the line of the pelvic bones. A little higher is also acceptable. Such a fit not only does not distort the proportions of the figure, but even corrects it favorably and suits almost everyone, in contrast to the overstated or understated waistline.
Those flaps along the waistline are out of fashion, and besides, they visually make the figure look fatter. Much more modern models without additional folds, they look much more beautiful.
Check whether the arrows are well ironed, there are no creases on them, and the pockets look neat (they should not stick out). Try on pants, sit down in them, if somewhere something fits, then you need a larger size.
Now the suit is no longer just a ceremonial dress. It is proud and confidently returned to the closet of men, it is willingly worn on holidays and every day. Technology of tailoring is constantly improving, there are new modern fabrics, beautiful, affordable and of good quality. So today, any man can choose a good quality decent suit for all occasions.