To buy a men’s suit, theoretically it is enough to go to a boutique and choose a product of a certain color and size. But what should be the kind of good men’s suit that will fit perfectly? What is its cost, what aspects should be taken into account when choosing which shop to go to?
Style, season, sewing technology, brand of basic and lining fabrics, fittings, patterns – all this will have to think in advance.
Styles of men’s suits
According to traditions of this or that region of the world, several basic styles of men’s suits can be distinguished:
English costume – classic and strict, but elegant, structured and aristocratic, has many layers, accentuated shoulder and back line, creates a sense of “military alignment” of the wearer, he as if pulls up, collects a figure;
North Italian suit – conceptually similar to the English business suit, more fitting, has a clear and rigid shoulder line and the whole silhouette, straight trousers without changing the width along the length;
South-Italian costume – leotard, dandy, without a clear shoulder line and silhouette, a little slender, not strict and not waiter, comfortable, suitable for people with good figure, ideal for wearing in summer;
French costume – it is distinguished by its classic look, elegance, sense of proportion, perfect tailoring, but almost complete absence of original ideas;
German costume – multi-layered, bagged, has a free cut, comfortable, well sewn;
German costume by Hugo Boss – wide stressed shoulders and narrowed hip line, sexy, elegant;
American costume – as a rule, it is deliberately careless and non-working, rounded silhouette, without lining in shoulders, and with the possibility to roll up sleeves.
Above are the collective images of different styles and traditions of costume tailoring, which reflect national differences and cultures of different regions of the world. Perhaps one of them is right for you and will best suit your individual ideas about men’s suits. You do not have to go to France to buy a “French suit”, this type of suit can be made anywhere in the world.
How do men’s suits are sewed?
First of all, let’s determine that there are three ways to sew a man’s suit:
Mass production, or completely machine sewing of clothes;
“Made-to-measure”, or tailoring based on ready-made patterns with individual measurements;
“Bespoke – entirely handmade, with the creation of “name” patterns based on multiple personal measurements, without the use of machine production.
Obviously, from the point of view of technology, the price of tailoring will differ many times. But, unfortunately, the costume price includes not only the technology of tailoring, fabric quality and complexity of the model, but also such a factor as the level of the brand. Therefore, many well-known brands of men’s suits do not differ in price from those made by strictly individual tailoring “bespoke”, and sometimes even exceed them in price. Thus, the cost of men’s suits from the Baldessarini line by Hugo Boss starts from $1500 per copy, Brioni and Borelli – from $4500, Kiton – from $5000, Patrick Hellmann – from $1400 to $5000.
In addition to the fact that not everyone can afford such expenses, the catch is the need to fit any shop suit to the figure. In other words, the brand is not yet a guarantee of results. You can not just take and order a suit in an expensive online store, get it by mail, steam – and immediately go to a social event or an interview in a reputable firm. You will surely not feel quite comfortable. But the image of the man is not built on the label, but on the confidence and relaxed movements.
Of course, individual tailoring of a suit requires a lot of time and money. But the purchase of a ready-made suit in the store – it is not a matter of five minutes, even if you have qualified consultants. To save time and effort, you should know what to pay attention to during the fitting.
How to choose the right costume
For starters, let’s deal with the markings. High-quality ready-made suits should differ in size, width, and height. For example, the designation 48/7L indicates that you are looking at a suit that is designed for a tall and slim person of size 48 and 7 fullness.
Size is defined as half the volume of the chest at its widest part. That is, size 48 means 96 centimeters of chest volume. However, one size is not enough, important proportions of the figure, which determines such a parameter as completeness.
Labeling of completeness : 0-8, where 8 – athletic body with wide shoulders and narrow waist, 0 – a figure in which the largest measure takes place in the abdomen area. The average is the fullness of 6, per square figure.
Remember, it’s not enough to “fit” into a suit by volume. The length of the sleeve, the jacket on the back, the length of trousers in step and outer seams are important. These parameters directly depend on growth.
Markings of growth :
XL (extra long) – height from 190 cm;
L (long) – height 180-190 cm;
R (regular) – height 175-180 cm;
C (court) – growth of 170-175 cm.
By the way!
In good-quality suits for the formation of the silhouette of the jacket use only natural materials based on linen, horsehair, with the use of a rigid lattice fabric – bortovki.
In addition to these parameters, there are individual features of the body. For example, the suit may formally suit your height, but with a normal step seam and the length of the jacket sleeves and pants will be long or short. That is why it is best to go to the shops, where you will be offered the service of fitting a suit on the figure.
What should the costume be made of?
In order to simply orientate yourself in the right size and fit, you can try on a suit made of any fabric. However, your future purchase should be in line with your goals. To do this, you need to answer the questions in the “The suit should be…” series:
winter, summer or all-season?
casual or for special occasions?
for business negotiations or for an evening?
a strict or a viscous one?
When choosing a fabric for a certain season, you should pay attention to the density (weight) of the fabric:
220-250 g/m 2 – summer suit fabric;
270-280 g/m 2 – demi season fabric;
350-400 g/m 2 – winter fabric.
Suits for special occasions can be sewn from less wear, but more spectacular fabric than everyday.
Evening suits are sewn from monochrome fabrics of dark shades, in hot countries let’s assume a white evening suit. Business suits are usually worn during the day, so there may be light shades, in a cage or stripe.
If you need an inexpensive strict suit, the fabric should contain an admixture of synthetics. From 100% wool you can sew a product that will not crumple, but this is the highest price category. Flax in principle, the material is wrinkling, designed for wallpaper summer style.
It is important!
Orient yourself in the fabrics, sizes and fit you will help sales consultants in the store, do not hesitate to contact them. It is also useful to exit the dressing room to look at yourself in the mirror from a distance.
High-quality fabric for a strict suit may contain 5-30% synthetic. It’s no big deal, as the technology of fabric manufacturing has made great strides in recent decades. Modern factories offer comfortable breathable blended materials.
Until quite recently, many people perceived the costume exclusively as clothing for solemn occasions. Now we can talk about a triumphant return of a man’s suit to the everyday wardrobe. There is a mass of quality and inexpensive fabrics, improved technology of sewing and working with the client. This means that a comfortable, beautiful and durable suit can be purchased for any man if he wants.